![]() ![]() But it doesn't hurt specifically setting PWM to on. So Auto and PWM should both do the same, as you have a 4 pin fan. A DC curve is usually in 'steps', while with PWM it's more of a curve, allowing for less noticable fan noise increases. See if you can make such a change in BIOS Setup for the fan. PWM the 4th pin on a fan header, which has a more granular, more smooth control option. For this you may be able to re-adjust the fan control system to increase the minimum speed it is told to run at the lowest temperatures. OR, the fan control system has been set to a minimum speed (for lowest temperatures and workload) that really is too slow, allowing the fan to stall. IF the fan is old and worn, it may stall because of bearing friction even if the speed control signal sent to it is what would have been adequate when the fan was new. If that is too slow, the fan will stall again and the cycle repeats. Made it so the chip runs a little toasty under 100 all-core load (75-77C), but it’s rare that it sees that, it idles at 45C with a 40 fan speed, and is otherwise pretty whisper quiet. But if the fan does re-start, then its speed signals would be set back to what it was before. Just do it in the BIOS, it has a pretty self-explanatory GUI and fan curve graph you can click on and move. If it does not, then you would get a fan failure warning screen and possibly a system shut-down to prevent overheating. If that happens, the first reaction of your system would be to change the fan speed control signal to call for full speed to ensure it DOES re-start. The NORMAL operation of a fan involves monitoring the fan speed signal for failure - that is, it stops turning and sending a speed signal. ![]()
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